Fiber Files: Hemp

Hemp was likely the earliest plant cultivated for textile fiber. Archaeologists found a remnant of hemp cloth in ancient Mesopotamia (currently Iran and Iraq) which dates back to 8,000 BC. Hemp is also believed to be the oldest example of human industry. In the Lu Shi, a Chinese work of the Sung dynasty (500 AD), we find reference to the Emperor Shen Nung (28th century BC) who taught his people to cultivate hemp for cloth. It is believed that hemp made it to Europe in approximately 1,200 BC. From there, it spread throughout the ancient world.

During the middle ages, hemp became an important crop of enormous economic and social value supplying much of the world’s need for food and fiber. Sailing ships became dependent on canvas (derived from the word cannabis) for sails and rope due to it being 3 times stronger than Cotton and resistant to salt water. Throughout generations, hemp was a key component in everyday life, used for daily essentials such as clothes, shoes, ropes, and paper. In 1535 in the UK, Henry VIII passed an act compelling all landowners to sow 1/4 of an acre, or be fined.  Up until the 1920’s, 80% of clothing was made from Hemp textiles.

Although hemp played a major role in the early development of North America, it was eventually overshadowed by cotton. When the invention of the mechanical cotton gin at the end of the 18th century made it easier to process cotton, hemp could no longer compete. Hemp was processed by hand which was very labor intensive and costly, not lending itself towards modern commercial production.

During the 1930’s “hemp” propaganda was created by companies with a vested interest in new synthetic textile who saw hemp as the biggest threat to their businesses. According to the February 1938 issue of Popular Mechanics, hemp was on the verge of becoming “the billion-dollar crop.” However, in September 1937 the United States government, under the influence of the lobbying by synthetic textile companies like DuPont, proposed prohibitive tax laws, and levied an occupational excise tax upon hemp dealers. Later that year hemp production was banned altogether. 

World War II provided a new chance for hemp. To meet demand for war production, the U.S. and Canadian governments lifted restrictions. Until the end of the war, farmers with special permits grew hemp to supply the war effort. However, the ban on growing hemp remained after the Second World War. 

Hemp has historically had over 25,000 diverse uses ranging from paints, printing inks, varnishes, paper (the Declaration of Independence was written on hemp paper), food, textiles (the original ‘Levi’s’ jeans were made from Hemp cloth), and canvas (such artist canvases were used by the great masters).

In 2014 President Obama signed the Farm Bill, which allowed research institutions to start piloting hemp farming. Ultimately, hemp and all its derivatives became fully legalized in 2018, through the passage of the Agricultural Improvement Act. While some stigma remains with its association to marijuana, more farmers, entrepreneurs, and consumers are interested in hemp than ever before because of its sustainable, eco-friendly characteristics and multipurpose uses.  

One acre of hemp can produce as much fiber as 2 to 3 acres of cotton. It grows with little water and requires no pesticides or herbicides which maintains soil health. Hemp plants produce more oxygen and absorb up to 4 times as much carbon dioxide than trees and other rival fibers, having the potential to help reduce the global carbon footprint.  Hemp fiber is not only the strongest natural fiber, it is breathable and does not retain moisture, it is UV and mildew resistant with antimicrobial properties, and also more weather resistant than cotton and silk. 

Hemp is also a fair trade fiber because it is not too expensive to cultivate and grow.  It requires no fallow period so the farmer can begin to replant as soon as the hemp is harvested. This means that the farmers are generating a healthy living all year round, at a fair price and are wasting as little land as possible.  It truly is a sustainable + ethical fiber!

Sources:

https://www.mit.edu/~thistle/v13/2/history.html

https://ministryofhemp.com/hemp/history/

https://elysianholding.com/blog/f/the-history-of-industrial-hemp

https://learn.eartheasy.com/guides/hemp-clothing/

https://indohemp.com/blog/hemp-material-benefits/

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